A VISIT TO THE JEWISH QUARTER OF PRAGUE

HISTORY OF THE JEWISH QUARTER OF PRAGUE

Nestled between the bustling Old Town Square and the stunning Vltava River, the Jewish Quarter in Prague dates back to the 13th century. As was the case with other European cities at that time, the Jewish Quarter was developed as a ghetto for the Jewish people, away from the main city. This was the only area where they were allowed to live and work. The area was known as the 'Jewish Town' or the 'Jewish Ghetto' but was later christened 'Josefstadt' in honour of the Holy Roman Emperor Joseph II, who in 1850, emancipated the Jews of Prague and bestowed upon them equal rights similar to the other citizens of the country. Post this, the wealthier Jewish citizens moved to other parts of the town but the Josefstadt still remained the seat of active Jewish life in Prague.

Tragically, during the Nazi occupation of erstwhile Czechoslovakia and the horrific Holocaust, most of the residents were deported to concentration camps and the Josefstadt was almost completely deserted. It was during this time when most of the historic synagogues and other Jewish sites all over the region were destroyed, effectively erasing almost all physical traces of Jewish life. However, the synagogues, the stunning ceremonial hall, the cemetery & the thousands of artefacts collected by the Jewish Museum escaped this brutal fate, through a chilling twist in the tale. It is believed that the Nazis wished to preserve these items and sites to build a 'Museum of an Extinct Race' in Prague, which would narrate the tale of the Jewish race wiped out by the Aryans.

Thankfully, this museum did not come to fruition, and the Jewish Quarter of Prague was spared. It in-fact became one of the most well preserved Jewish towns in all of Europe.

HOW TO GET THERE

During my visit to Prague, I stayed at the La Ballerina Hotel, which was situated in Dittrichova, Nove Mesto, from where the Jewish Quarter was a brisk 15-20 min walk. The location is super easy to reach using Google Maps. You can also get a printed map for the route from your hotel reception. I chose to walk there because I was also interested in photographing the city, nestled alongside the ambling Vltava river, while on my way there, but in case you're not keen on walking the distance, or are staying further away, you can very easily take a bus, tram or metro to the area. It's well connected by all three modes of transport. The name of the stops for all three modes is 'Staromeststka'. From there, it's just a small walk to the main sights of the Quarter.

Address:

Jewish Quarter (Josefov)

U Staré školy,

110 00 Staré Město,

Czechia

Bus Stop: Staromestska (194 & 207)

Tram Stop: Staromestska (Trams 2, 14, 17, 18 & 93)

Metro Stop: Staromestska (Line A)

Of course, the best idea is to visit the Quarter once you're already in the Old Town Square, since it's an easy 5 minute walk from the Old Town Square and a 10 minute walk from the popular Charles Bridge.

TICKETS

You can buy the tickets for entry at the Information & Reservation Centre. It's right at the entrance of the Jewish Quarter and you can see queues of tourists waiting around it. The tickets can be bought online as well but I bought them at the Centre and it was super easy. You can pay using Euros, CZKs or using any valid international credit card. If you have already bought the Prague Card or the Prague Visitor Pass, then entry, to all the sites in the Jewish Quarter, is free.

For more information, check out the Jewish Museum website.

THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE VISITING

The Jewish Quarter has become a popular tourist spot now for visitors from all over the world. Throughout the day, various tour groups visit in large numbers and it gets super crowded. So if you're visiting independently like I did, the best time to visit is early in the morning before the tour groups arrive. That's the best time to actually visit all the sites, see all the artefacts and read all the history of the place in peace. The timings are updated on the website in case of any changes so it's best to check out the website one day before you visit.

The Jewish Quarter hosts multiple Synagogues and the Old Jewish Cemetery. Since these are places of religious significance, it's ideal to dress modestly. Some of the synagogues require male visitors to wear a 'Kippah', the Jewish cap on their head. It's available free of cost at the entrance of the synagogues which require it to be worn and is to be deposited in a box at the exit, once your visit is complete.

Photography is allowed at all the sites in the Quarter. The synagogues are great for pictures. However, we should all take cognisance of the fact that these are sites with a tumultuous history. The Museum & Cemetery host artefacts and graves of Jewish people who were massacred in one of the most brutal times in the history of Europe. Thus, it's best to take a few pictures of the sites respectfully and decently. When I visited, I unfortunately saw a few 'influencers' dressed to the nines, taking lively pictures, smiling and posing, near the graves in the Cemetery, which was appalling to say the least. As visitors, we should all refrain from doing that.

MUST-VISIT SITES IN THE JEWISH QUARTER

Spanish Synagogue

In stark contrast to the brutalities faced by Jews in medieval Europe, during the Islamic occupation of Andalusia (present day Spain & Portugal), Jews thrived as a trading community. To commemorate this period of Jewish history in Europe, the Spanish Synagogue was built in the Moorish style of architecture, that is otherwise found in parts of Morocco & Spain. Built in 1868, the Spanish Synagogue of Prague is considered to be one of the most beautiful synagogues in Europe.

Maisel Synagogue

The Maisel Synagogue in Prague was consecrated in 1592 by Mordecai Maisel, the Mayor of Prague Jewish Town, by Emperor Rudolf II's permission. The synagogue burnt down in the ghetto fire of 1689 and was rebuilt several times. It acquired its current Neo-Gothic form by Prof. A Grotte in 1893 - 1905. Stained glass windows framed within arches are an important architectural feature of this synagogue, which is otherwise quite utilitarian in its design.

Maisel Synagogue suffered neglect in the Nazi and Communist eras, however extensive reconstruction in 2014-2015 restored the building to its early 20th century appearance. A permanent exhibition at Maisel Synagogue tells the story of 'Jews in the Bohemian Lands, 10th-18th centuries'. Displays include rare artefacts, while touch screens enable visitors to search old Hebrew manuscripts, learn about prominent Jewish figures, and view historical maps of Jewish settlements in the area.

Pinkas Synagogue

The Pinkas Synagogue is the second oldest preserved synagogue in Prague. In 1955, the Pinkas Synagogue was turned into a memorial to the 80,000 Jewish victims of the Holocaust, who belonged to the Bohemian & Moravian lands. One of the earliest memorials of its kind in Europe, the names of the victims were painted by two painters, Václav Boštík and Jirí John. After the Soviet invasion in 1968, the memorial was unfortunately closed to the public for more than 20 years. It was fully reconstructed and reopened to the public in 1995 after the fall of the occupying Communist regime.

It's a sombre place to visit and it's heartbreaking to read the names of all the innocent people whose lives were snatched mercilessly due to hatred and bigotry.

Klausen Synagogue

Adjacent to the Old Jewish Cemetery, the Klausen Synagogue is the only surviving synagogue built during the Baroque period. The synagogue hosts a permanent exhibition 'Jewish Traditions & Customs' where visitors can see the Torah scroll and Jewish prayer books. It also has a section dealing with Jewish holidays, customs and rituals, along with objects that are typically found in Jewish households.

Old Jewish Cemetery

Located between the Klausen & Pinkas synagogues, the Old Jewish cemetery is one of the most important Jewish cemeteries in Prague. In a chilling development, the cemetery was spared from total destruction during the Nazi occupation of Czechoslovakia because the Nazis wished to build a 'Museum of an Extinct Race' on its grounds, that would inform people of the future about the Jewish people wiped out by the Aryans. Thankfully this cruel plan didn't come to fruition and the Cemetery survived. Since the Jews of Prague weren't allowed to bury their dead outside the limits of the Ghetto, the gravestones had to be piled up on top of each other, due to paucity of space. It's a grim reminder of the atrocities faced by the Jewish people in Europe during the period.

Today, visitors can pay their respects to the thousands buried at the Old Jewish Cemetery. It's a sombre experience which makes you shudder about the atrocities that humans are capable of inflicting upon fellow humans.

Well, that's been my experience, visiting the Jewish Quarter of Prague. I hope this helps you in planning your visit as well! Do let me know in comments if there’s anything more you need to know, or just to share your feedback.